David Wilson's 1996 Turbo Z28

By David K. Wilson



This page will chronicle the effort to install a TC76mm Turbocharger into my 4th Generation Z28 Camaro


*NOTE: Picture links are at the bottom of this page





*** Please note that all parts pictures are at the bottom of this page ***

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*** U P D A T E ***(05/30/2014)

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*** U P D A T E ***(04/22/2014)

Geez.. I didn't realize I hadn't updated this in so long. Catching up...
01. Installed the hotside and got it all going with the new PT7675 Turbo.
02. There were a few (minor) things on the kit that needed addressing...
__a. The downpipes location for the wide band put it right where the knock sensor came out of the block. Had to shorten that and reweld it.
__b. The primary for cylinder 3 goes by number 1 sparkplug a tad too close. You have to use an Accel shorty plug.
__c. The passenger side tubular headers collector comes out almost right upon the plastic bellows on the rack and pinion. Melted a hole in it.
03. I drove it for a little while but had my injector box go out on me. I can't nail down exactly why but I feel it's something I've done in futzing around with the wires. Still chasing that gremlin. Meanwhile, the 60# Mototrons are still flowing fine.
04. Though the car has felt "pretty good" with the new setup, it nowhere near ran as good as I hoped it would with the new hotside and PT7675. Then, just this last week, I discovered that one bolt had completely came out of my Throttle body. Not only that, the other 3 were backed out several rotations. This caused a massive boost leak since tons of air could squeeze out around the perimeter. I swear I could put my hand on the TB and rock it all over the place while the bolts were like that. So, I put a new gasket on there, torqued it down and took it out for a 19psi drive. My god... THERE'S the performance I was expecting. Woot!!
05. Before item #4 happened, I was so unimpressed with the PT7675 that I decided to go with two small GT35 turbos and convert my setup to a twin turbo. I ordered them and they arrived the same day I discovered the throttle body issue. I will keep driving the car as is, but will, by degrees, assemble everything for the twin kit so I can do a one day/one weekend swap. That setup could put me in the 900 hp range :)

*** U P D A T E ***(08/27/2012)

Jon - (aka "Realquick" of LT1boost.com) just sent me some more pics. These are for the wastegate area.

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*** U P D A T E ***(08/27/2012)

Jon - (aka "Realquick" of LT1boost.com) just sent me some more pics. Thanks Jon!!


*** U P D A T E ***(08/23/2012)

The gentleman(Jon - aka "Realquick" of LT1boost.com) just sent me some pics of the downpipe routing. Looks Great! I'll finally be able to get my air filter up out of harms way. It had been down close to the bottom of the radiator. Thanks Jon!!


*** U P D A T E ***(07/15/2012)

The gentleman(Jon - aka "Realquick" of LT1boost.com) that created my original 'log style' hotside has generously decided to build a new tubular manifold hotside for me on spec. I'm sure I'll like it so there's not too much 'spec'ulation that'll I'll buy it :) The following are some pictures of the manifolds being fitted/mocked up for final welding.
The drivers side manifold...

The Passenger side manifold...

On an unrelated note, I made another (this is the 3rd different one) Ford Shelby GT500 owner watch my car out accelerate him. This was a beautiful Black w/Red stripe car. I pulled past him by second gear and it was only going to get worse for him as I shifted so he quit rather than have his car shown up so badly. I'm sure some readers will say "Yeah but you got a turbo while he's probably stock". Well, my car came from the factory with 285 HP at the crank while iterations of the GT500 come from the factory with anywhere from 500 to 600+ HP at the crank. Should we both only race if both of us are stock? That would be fun... "Just got my ass kicked again by a car that has twice my hp. What a surprise...". I really like the looks/sound/flash of the GT500 but my sticker price $21,000 with some mods just beat a car that costs anywhere from $50,000 to $80,000 depending on options...

*** U P D A T E ***(07/06/2012)

The weather finally cleared after the rather warm winter so I got the car out from the car cover and went to work. I put in new poly (Energy suspension bushings) and a BMR tubular K-member. This last one required me to reroute/reweld my turbo's crossover pipe. While there, I decided to also reroute the intermediate pipe so I could regain some ground clearance. This worked out well and the car clears just like it did when it was bone stock. Another addition was a BMR 'torque arm relocation kit'. This takes the mounting point for the front of the torque arm off the transmissions tailshaft and ties it directly to the transmission cross member. Another mod was switching to Lloyd Elliot stage 3 ported TFS heads with 2.08/1.60 valves. In recent racing, with some adverse conditions, the car has ran as fast as 129mph at the local drag strip. The ET remains rather unimpressive due to the inability to get off the line quickly. I have a TH3050 and newly stalled (4,000RPM) torque converter I hope to put in this racing season but time has been hard to come by. I thought I'd mention for the Ford Fans,... I've recently raced 3 Shelby GT500's (not 2013's though... yet :) ). One was on the street, starting in 3rd gear through 4th. I gave him the move and I still had him by 3 cars by 6000 rpm in 4th. The other two were at the drag strip at full weight, street tires(Nitto DRs).

*** U P D A T E ***(04/11/2011)


*** U P D A T E ***(03/11/2011)

The incredible snowfalls we've had this year have finally subsided and I was able to take the car cover off and drive the car. As I got into the car, turned the key and waited for the fuel pump to primp, I closed my eyes and mouthed an otherwise silent prayer that the car would (a) turnover and (b) start. To my delight, she fired up right away and idled perfectly after 3 months storage! After a warm-up and check of all instruments, we eased out on the road and headed to the highway. Once there, I got on the ramp and started getting up to speed. Right away, some doof in a Grand Am was in the near lane, coming up fast and, even though there was no car beside him to prevent him from moving over as a courtesy, he seemed intent on making me slam on my brakes till he went by or 'forcing me' to floor my car. I chose 'B'. Whoosh... no problem getting out in front of him. And only used about 7 psi in the effort. Lol... I love this car!

*** U P D A T E ***(10/26/2010)

Just adding an update since it's been over a year... What has happened in the interim is; The car in just a blast to drive but the first snows are predicted this week so I'll, reluctantly, have to set her up for storage until Spring.
1. Switched to a TH350 (again). Loved the transmission everywhere except on the freeway and from a deadstart. It is sluggish since no boost could be built with the 2,800 stall Vigilante torque converter. It is an absolute snail off the line. It builds no boost at all when foot braking against the Torque Converter. On balance, Once moving, it feels amazing. The unrelenting power delivery is nothing short of addictive. I called Precision Industries and they recommmended restalling to 3,800 (at least).
2. I took the TH350 back out, bought a new SPEC 4 clutch kit and put the T56 back in. The car is fun to drive on the freeways again!
3. Took out the stock ported heads and put in Canfield Heads.
4. Found a rust out spot in the passenger floorboard. Water has been coming in for some time thru the PCM wiring harness grommet. Ground it out and installed a fiberglass patch to fix it.

*** U P D A T E ***(9/16/2009)

Well... Only got to make the one pass tonight. The Clutch got kind of stuck after the burnout when I was going to do the second pass. It was weird. The pedal felt fine but the clutch wouldn't disengage so I could put it in gear. The burnout went fine and the car hopped right up to the staging lights. I clutched it so I could tickle the car into the staging beams but it was acting as if I'd never pressed the clutch pedal. I had to be pushed back off the track. Once there, with the motor off, I put it in reverse and cranked it. It bumped a couple of times, then caught and I backed it into the pits. After that, the clutch made a few 'inappropriate' sounds like squeals but returned to functional status. WTH? Anyway, on the one pass... I'd ran out of time and didn't get to unbolt the front sway bar. I also didn't get to swap out the stock LCA for my BMR. This caused the 245x50x16 Nitto DR's to do some wheel hopping. I short shifted 1st to 2nd shift (to stay in 2nd gear boost longer) and 2nd gear felt just wonderful, then I shifted to 3rd and 4th normally but the acceleration felt a bit flat so I let off before the end of the track.

Result:
Reaction: 0.135
60 foot: 2.017
330 ft mark: 5.417
660: 7.041
MPH1: 108.52
1000 ft. Mark: 10.041
1320 ft mark: 11.876
MPH2: 119.86


The time slip is so grainy it's hard to see 

The Cobra beside me thought he was going to hand me my head. I think once I got into 2nd gear, he had a rethink moment. Looks like he let off and coasted... Here's the pass. Please forgive my wife's shaky camera work (Think Blair Witch), lol..
Sept 16th, 2009 at New Lebanon Raceway Park. Driven right off the Freeway, onto the track and raced. Full Street Weight and stock sized street tires.

*** U P D A T E ***(7/19/2009)

Again, just letting you know the car is running and running well. The Red Devil and I are back up in Upstate New York as I type this. The only things I've added since the last update is a two gauge pod and an AEM Tru-Boost Electronic Boost controller. I'm running 14 psi consistently now. I've also put the OBDII PCM back in the car for inspections and Bryan Herter at PCM4Less again did an outstanding job on the Tuning. About a week ago, after hearing about the shop/owner, I went by Redline , the LSx speed shop that is near Albany, NY. True to what I'd heard, he acted like my LT1 was trash on his parking lot and wouldn't even speak to me. I didn't really want anything from him or the shop. I'd just heard he (the owner) was an arrogant jackass and he didn't disappoint me in that impression. I also stopped over to see Kevin from Extreme Automotive. Kevin is a great guy and real Fbody fan so I enjoyed chatting with him and Adam(Another Mechanic at Extreme Automotive).


*** U P D A T E ***(9/26/2008)

No real news or changes. Just wanted to let you guys know the car is a dream to drive. I drive it to/from work in Houston ever day of the week and it behaves like a commuter car. Civil as it can be, decent gas mileage, quiet and dependable. But let one of those pesky Mustangs, Cobras, Turbo Neons(the worst, like Mosquitoes), EVO's, Sportbikes, etc try to show me I'm an just a turd LT1, Bwaaahaaahaa... They're stunned when my car begins flying away from them.


*** U P D A T E ***(8/11/2008)

     Just got back from the (Dynapac, not DynoJet) dyno. Color me very happy!


      Max PSI : 11.79


      Max RWTQ: 571


      Max RWHP: 574


     Air fuel Ratio was 11.x:1 during 3K to 6K, then briefly went to 12.x:1 Weather conditions at the time of dyno:


1pm today 97 degrees F, 40% humidity, 29.9 barometric Pressure, dew point 69F Test was through full exhaust, no dumps/cutouts. Air filter on. At 12 psi during the first pull, the reducer coupler at the compressor outlet popped off. Dan took a break while I got under there to put the coupler back on with a good T-Bolt. To my horror, I saw the Air filter was GONE. I remembered hitting some retread crap the other day when the car in front of me just went over it and I didn't have time to react but I didn't consider it could have wacked that low slung air filter. I don't know how long I've been driving around, drinking dirt into my new wonderful motor, but it's been at least 2 days. I bought a 3" cast aluminum elbow I found in SGP Racings Box 'o pipes and put that on there. I was frustrated when SGP didn't have a 4" K&N filter but Dan had Moshi drive me over to Pep Boys to get one, free of charge. With that all back on and buttoned up we took the second pull. The TQ/HP lines on the graph are sooo smooth. Not jittery or having spikes and dips. This is an untouched/altered mail order turbo tune! Good Job Bryan!I asked Dan why it was that a wastegate with 14psi springs would open up at 12psi and he said he's sees it a lot with cars that don't have boost controllers. He recommended I get a Blitz electronic boost controller so I'm going to pick that up next paycheck! Jon (aka "RealQuick"), good job on the hotside!


*** U P D A T E ***(7/25/2008)

I'm still just getting into boost 'a little' every now and then since I got it running right last week. Tonight, I had to go to the store and it was dusk when I was returning down the long straight black top on the way to the house. I saw an LS1 Formula pull in behind me when I passed a convenience store along the way. As we got up close to the area where passing is allowed, he got up on my bumper in the 45mph zone, obviously positioning himself to pass me. I downshifted to 3rd and decided to see what it felt like to go beyond the normal 4,500 RPM threshold to which I'd been relegating myself. I pressed the gas pedal, not stomping it. As it got into the 10psi and then beyond, I had to keep watching the road and steering. I'm still shaking but have a mile wide grin on my face. I mentioned on my website that I missed the "demented" power of the turbos. I've put up with a lot of ankle biting problems to get the engine and car set up right but DAYEM it was all worth it. I can't believe I have such a sleeper monster. Looking and listening to my car, you'd never think it had anything but a bone stock '96 LT1. Only the FMIC gives any indication. I want to thank everyone here that gave me tips and answered what had to appear as incessant questions about all things Turbo. Big thanks to Dr Turbo for the T76. Also thanks to RealQuick for the Log Manifolds, Bret Bauer for the Turbo Cam. I don't even have this thing fine tuned and it's a killer. I've gone 11.1 @ 121 mph with N2O and it was nothing compared to this. I've got to get the fine tuning done then get to the dyno. That will probably be the first weekend of August.


*** U P D A T E ***(7/08/2008)

She's running on all 8 now (Freakin finally). My next problem, keeping it straight on the road. Every time it gets into boost, it starts spinning and the rear end tries to come around.


*** U P D A T E ***(7/04/2008)

Just put a new stock coil ($37) and Ignition Control Module ($71) and a set of stock Duralast/Autozone Plug wires ($35) on the car and just the 'old' opti to spin/generate the spark signal. What? No spark? Wait, what's that noise? The old opti is making a bunch of Chattering noises inside. Then I remember, "Oh, that's right. This is that piece of crap non-functioning(the high voltage part) Opti of someone elses that HPE gave me when they screwed me over on that roller cam motor". So, I just put 3 plug wires with plugs on them onto the New Summit Opti bolted to the engine. I spun it over. What? No spark?.. Oh wait (sheepish grin) I forgot to hook up the harness to the engines opti. Hooked it up, said a prayer, spun the engine. Hot damn! Sparks! And evenly timed too (at least it seems so at this point). I'm going to put the sparkplugs in the heads, route the plug wires as best I can around the Hotsides Log manifolds and once everything is connected to the point I can start it (no waterpump, etc is hooked while I'm in diagnostic mode here) I'll fire her up. I sure hope I'm greeted by a V8 running on all 8 for a change. It appears now it's been the LTCC box the whole time.


*** U P D A T E ***(6/29/2008)

Well, much to my chagrin, the cam is right on the ICL of the cam card. 112. I'm taking a water break, then putting the timing cover, etc back on. I'll find it... someday. Lol... At least I've eliminated another question mark.


*** U P D A T E ***(6/28/2008)

Found my cam specs. Going to pick up the cam degree kit plus the nut you put on the crank to turn it over. I have to wait till about noon today to meet the guy (Fbody Buddy of course! The best guys/girls on the planet!) to pick up his kit, accessories. I did a little more research (prompted by fellow LS1Tech'r Chuck Norton. Thanks Chuck!) and found that not only did my engine builder not adv/retard the cam 2 degrees as he'd stated, the timing set (CLO-9-3145) doesn't even have a provision for just 2 degrees. It has 3 keyways. 4 degrees Advanced, "Standard/Dot-to-Dot" and 4 degrees Retarded. (For those in Rio Linda, that means you can't *just* add/subtract 2 degrees with this timing set). Something stinks here (and it's not just that shirt I've been wearing while under the car) Using the ICL (Intake CenterLine method) the cam should show a 112 ICL if it's degreed properly.


*** U P D A T E ***(6/27/2008)

After reading SEVERAL accounts where people reported a timing set off a tooth could make a car run like mine has been, I pulled the timing cover off and had a look. I must mention that this engine has a custom and expensive turbo cam spec'd out by Bret Bauer and that it had specific information for degreeing the cam. When I provided all the information to my engine builder (gave him the cam card) he went after it and afterwards, stated he had to move it 2 degrees ( I don't remember now if it was 2 deg advance or 2 degrees retarded) to get the Intake Center Line method to line up. I thought, "Great! He's thorough!". Well, after all the stuff I've replaced and checked, I decided it HAD to be the cam phasing so I pulled off the timing cover. Only to see it's dot to dot. WTF?.... Add to that, the timing cover bolts were all finger tight. Now it looks like I've got to get a degree kit and check it out for sure myself.


*** U P D A T E ***(6/20/2008)

Well.... over nighted the Opti and a new Opti Pigtail and it was here to greet me when I came home from work. Tested them before installing it by just hooking up the harness to the new one, turned on the key, spun the opti. The red blinking light on the LTCC was gone and I could hear the spark plugs sparking. Cool ... So I installed it. Then swapped the injectors back to the mototrons. Reflashed the PCM with Bryans tune and fired it up.IT RUNS THE SAME G*D DAMNED WAY AS IT HAD!!!! Running on 6 cylinders at the most. UNbelievable! This is so sad it's funny.I tried relashing it with the timing advanced 2 degrees across the board since it starts so weakly. Doesn't matter. Ill get a timing light tomorrow and see it that reveals anything. The scanner says it's got 32 degrees at 850 rpm now. It did say 30 before I added the extra timing.

I've gone on to Google looking for symptoms of cams degreed incorrectly (retarded too many degrees) The symptoms I'm seeing sure look familiar I'm probably going to just pull the timing cover off and install it straight up. I sent an email to my engine builder and he said it used the '2 degree' slot on the crank sprocket but he can't recall now if it was 2 degrees advanced or 2 degrees retarded.


*** U P D A T E ***(6/17/2008)

Looks like I may have isolated it. TurboBobs LTCC has a couple of LED's inside the housing for the processor. I'd PM'd Bob last night asking if he had any idea if the LTCC could play a role in this. He asked me to pull off the cover of the box and look at the LED's. Upon "KEY ON", they go thru a bulb test and flash once. Then, when you crank, the green LED *should* illuminate and stay on. Mine does. The red LED is for diagnostics. Here's what the .pdf file just told me....

   Red LED flashes once = Cylinder Decode sequence error.


   Red LED flashes twice = Wrong number of Hi Res Pulses counted between Lo-Res Rising edges.


   Red LED flashes Three times = Wrong number of Hi Res Pulses counted during a High Lo-Res pulse or a Low Lo-Res Pulse.


   Red LED flashes four times = EST (Electronic Spark Control) signal from PCM = missed pulse. Check connection to white wire.


 Mine is flashing 3 times. I've sent a PM to TurboBob to see if this means its wiring or time for a new OPTI.



*** U P D A T E ***(6/12/2008)

When we last left our hero (me), I'd rushed to get the virgin Turbo installation up and running and drive it to Houston, TX from upstate New York. But at the witching hour, it was throwing a code (Left O2 Lean) and it had started backfiring whether in open or closed loop. I decided to punt and caught a flight back to Houston and opted to have the Z28 transported via car hauler. Well, $1,050 freakin' bux later, she got here today.

I eagerly took her the one block back to the house where I'm staying during my contract here in Houston. She's still backfiring... ugh. The LT1 edit scanner showed the Left O2 was lean and the BLM was 160 (maxed out trying to add fuel. I first checked for all vacuum hoses connected and intact. Check. I made sure all the injector connectors were on and tight. Check. I verified the TPS was .69 to 4.5volts in a linear fashion. Check. Hmpf.. so much for an easy fix. Well hell... let's put her on jackstands and have a look at plugs and O2 sensors/wiring. I pulled a few plugs on the drivers(left) side. Crap! I thought it was running lean. These plugs with 25 minutes of driving on them are black and wet and look more like they came out of a 120,000 hard mile farm truck. I pulled the rest of the plugs till all 8 were out. 6 of them looked the same, one was kiiiinda okay and one was just wet and shiny.

So, my first question is, would one bad O2 sensor make the PCM throw so much fuel at both sides of the motor that it loaded up the plugs? Next question, you guys running the Mototron 60#, what is your PCM poundage set to? Example: When I had the SVO 30#, I set them to 31 or 32 to lean them out. Did you do something similar with the 60's? I've got to get some more Autolite plugs tomorrow and probably an O2 Sensor. I'm going to set the injectors to 62 also to see if I can lean them out.

As if this weren't frustrating enough, the powers that be decided I needed another bite of the 'dung' sandwich. When I was under the hood listening for things, I noticed, "Hey, the Electric water pump isn't working!". Sure enough, even when I put power directly to the pump, bypassing the relay, it's gone. Sigh..I've got one on 'Next Day Air' from Summit and it'll be here Friday due to the late hour order.


*** U P D A T E ***(6/05/2008)

Called the car transport company to see if they were still on track to deliver the car by this weekend. Nope... ugh... Looks like Monday is the projected day now.

*** U P D A T E ***(5/30/2008)

Got a call from the car transport company. They are picking it up tomorrow and shipping it to me here in Houston. They say it will be 5 to 7 days with 7 being the more likely number.


*** U P D A T E ***(5/25/2008)

Well, after struggling to meet a deadline (I live in New York where the car is located but work in Houston) I had to leave before being able to sort it out. The intercooler took about 4 or 5 trial fits before settling in the perfect spot. Then I went about installing the piping from the kit I bought off the internet. I ran out of couplers before the job was done and I've decided something. That being, I feel certain Satan invented "T-Bolt" clamps or at least had a hand in designing these. I usually limit my cussing to sporadic utterances. This was more like a cussing "firefight". I'm sure my neighbor thinks I'm deranged, what with me laying under the car, no one else around and my 'colorful' language. I got EVERYTHING hooked up. For the moment, I can't think of a better location for the air filter. I'd like it to be higher up. Right now, it's a shorty pointing straight down.

For the initial startup, I left the tube off from the discharge going into the throttle body, just incase any junk was in the Intercooler, etc. Well, with everything checked and rechecked, I said a prayer, then turned the key. She fired off right away. No extended cranking whatsoever. Per my engine builder instructions, I set the idle at 2,000 RPM and got under the car looking for fluid leaks, mechanical issues, burning wires, etc. All good! I put my hand in front of the open discharge tube just to feel if it had any output. It was blowing about as hard as when you blow hard into your hands at the 1,900 indicated RPM. I had my LT1 Edit scanner hooked up and right away I noticed that the Left O2 was about 178 and lower while the right O2 was normal. As a result, the Pulse Widths differed. It didn't matter if it was in closed loop or open loop, it was the same. After about 30 minutes, good oil pressure, temps at 235 at the highest, I shut her off and let her cool down. I checked the connections on the O2 sensors and every thing was hooked up and tight. I took her off the jack stands, hooked up the discharge tube and decided to drive it over to the local gas station (about 3 miles away) and put some fresh gas since the car had been sitting with the old gas since 11/2007.

Right off the bat, it started backfiring sporadically. Like a lean misfire. At this point, unlike the earlier startup, it was backfiring occasionally even at idle. I opened the hood after getting the gas and looked at the vacuum hookups. I saw the PCV, midpoint drivers side intake manifold, had lost it's tubing connection. I hooked it back up, thinking "problem solved", but it was still missing, just less conspicuously. Up till this point, I was still thinking I could drive it back to Houston but I had to be at work today so I booked a last minute flight. I didn't have time to swap the O2 Sensors to see if the problem followed the swap, indicating a truly bad O2 sensor(They have only been on the old engine about a year and not even been used since 11/2007). The other things I can think of are, another vacuum leak, a bad injector, exhaust manifold leak, PCM Tune off somewhat or a misadjusted valve. At this point and time, I'm either going to have a bud of mine(Extreme Automotive in Rennselaer) look at it in New York, ship the car via transport to Houston, or fix it myself next trip home (4 weeks from now). The engine, Turbo and Intercooler all were seemingly perfect.


*** U P D A T E ***(5/16/2008)

My PLX Wide Band arrived today :) See the Wide Band Link below to see the pictures


*** U P D A T E ***(5/13/2008)

1. Picked up the engine from the engine builder tonight. I'll be dropping it off to Extreme Automotive for installation into the car tomorrow!
2. TurboBob delivered my new LTCC ignition today. It is the new design which uses the LS1 coil wiring harnesses instead of individual wire bundles to each coil. A much tidier engine is the result.

*** U P D A T E ***(5/9/2008)

1. Purchased the PLX Wide Band Kit from the Group Purchase going on at LS1Tech.com

2. Bought a plane ticket back to New York! I'm going to finish the motor and turbo installation and drive it back to Houston.


*** U P D A T E ***(5/2/2008)

The Long block is finished. See picture link below.


*** U P D A T E ***(4/27/2008)

The shortblock is finished.

(Original Post from 2007) I have been a fan of Turbochargers ever since my first Turbo car, the 1986 Porsche Turbo 944. Though it was only a 4 cylinder, it could outrun any stock V8 Foxbody Mustang in the quarter mile and, most certainly, on the top end. The way the car just kept pulling and pulling was phenomenal to me. I’d had it to an indicated 163 mph many times in the 5 years I owned it. Due to an imbecilic moment (impending marriage to a shrew from whom I’m now, thankfully, divorced) I sold the pristine car to a grateful gentleman.

Fast forward to 1996. I bought a new Z28 6 speed. After many modifications of the car including cams, heads, bore and stroke, fuel injectors, transmissions and differentials, I again pined for the ‘good ol days’ of driving civility, stealth and demented power of a Turbocharged street car. The evolution of the car from stock car running 14.00 @ 103 mph to a Nitrous car running a best of 11.1 @ 121 mph took about 7 years. Starting around October, I began to get serious about the Turbocharger installation. I looked at a lot of sites referencing current Turbo devotees and read the prodigious accounts of how they set things up in their 4th gens. I also noted one of the vendors, “Forced Inductions” and went to their site (as well as a ton of others). I contacted Jose at F.I. and I gave him my car’s specifications and my goals for the car (80/20 Street/strip, daily driver, 600rwhp) and he recommended the TC76 Turbo, the TurboSmart 38 WasteGate and the Megasonic Blowoff Valve. I’ve purchased the Turbo and the Wastegate and I’ll be ordering the BOV soon. Next objective was where to locate the Turbo in the engine bay.

Here’s some locations (for the Turbos) some guys have opted for; Cold Air site, in front of the harmonic balancer, in the battery site, near the differential. Not wanting to cut up the radiator support, I opted for the Cold Air Site. Next was determining fuel injectors. The largest High Impedance Fuel Injector at this time you can get is the Mototron 60#. I broadcast to several Fbody lists that I was in the market for some slightly used Mototron 60 pounders and Justin Daniels had a set with just 500’ish miles on them for $400 including shipping. Not too shabby!

Soon after that, I had to determine what way I would get the exhaust gasses to the turbo. I thought I could readily use stock manifolds (2 passenger sides, with the one on the drivers side reversed so as to point forward) and I have indeed seen such a setup. I started reviewing some of the kits out there on the forced induction forums at many sites, LS1tech.com, Turbomustangs.com, Camaross.com, LS1LT1.com. Some were one offs, some were really invasive, some were costly, some were comical. It really seemed to come to a balance of budget, mechanical prowess, longevity, fitment and goals. Although the ‘log’ style seems restrictive, one must remember most stock turbo equipped cars are ‘log’ designs and they work quite well. One company, Ohio Forced Inductions, makes a work of art kit but it’s priced beyond my current budget. I can always refit with that kit at a later date if need be. A gentleman (goes by “Realquick” on www.camaross.com) contacted me with a proposal to weld up a custom log kit for a decent price and I elected to have that done. It will be welded up out of Stainless Steel (update. No stainless. Too hard to weld. Jon opted for Mild steel and dropped the price a bit) and it should be here the last part of Jan(’07) to mid Feb(Update. Got them March 19th, 2007).

I needed some room in the engine compartment so, like many other Turbo’d Fbods, I bought the ABS Delete/Line Lock kit from HerronPerformance.

Next, I wanted an Intercooler so again I inquired to the various Turbo boards about a cost effective Intercooler that some might have had personal experience in using. The OBX turbo intercooler (L23 inch x H11.75 inch x 3.0 inch, opening is 3.0 inch) for $250 shipped off Ebay.

At first, I’d intended to use my own existing block in the ’96 by pulling the motor out and sending it off to a machinist. But this presented a few problems, the main one being, the car would be down for undetermined length of time whilst the parts and machinist and my own time allowed. Back to Ebay I went, finding a standard bore LT1 block for $200. Shipping was another $120 but it was delivered safely to my machinists shop. It was worth the shipping to not to have to deal with driving some place with a rental truck(I don’t own a truck), picking up the shortblock(yes, a complete shortblock, therefore heavy), driving over to the machinists, lugging the block out of the truck, and returning the rental truck.

Next, I needed a 4340 forged crank with a 3.48” stroke since I’ve found out the smaller motor(my current motor is a 383) would be better for this particular turbo. I found one on Ebay that was good to 1,000hp. That was shipped and promptly arrived. I also ordered splayed four bolt main caps and got those shipped. ARP main studs and bolts were ordered from Summit to mount the caps to the block.

After that, 5.7” 4340 forged rods were needed and they were ordered from the same place as the crank. They are “H” beam rods, bushed for full floating pistons. The Diamond forged Turbo pistons w/-22 (Reverse dome) were ordered along with Total Seal AP series (File to fit) rings. They will be gapped .028-.030 on the top and .018-.020 on the 2nd.UPDATE: Jim, my engine builder, said after careful research and based on past experience, he file fit the rings to have gaps of .022/.019

The pistons/rings should be here 10/17/2007 and that’s pretty much the last thing the machinist will need to setup his machines for final fitment. After he gives me the call and says it’s all ready, I’ll go pick up the many pieces, bring them home and thrust it all upon my engine stand to start assembly. I’ll assemble it from the bare block to full installation in the car myself. All my buds from the past that I would trust to help me are still in the fine state of Texas, so I’ll be alone on this but I can do it.

Parts:

Turbonetics T76 W/MPS Wheel

OBX Intercooler

4340 Forged Steel 5.7" H-Beam Rods

Diamond Turbo Pistons w/-22 Inverse Dome

Hotside - Log Manifold

TurboSmart 38mm Waste Gate

Cold Side Piping kit

60# Mototron Fuel Injectors

Tuning For the Turbo

Custom Cam shaft For the Turbo

Oiling System kits for the Turbo

Vortech Aluminum Intake Elbow

Turbo Longblock, done at last!!

PLX Wide Band O2 Sensor and Kit